Stranded in Cameroon

enfin back home

2007-05-16T14:30:04Z

So I am back in the states. Hooray, sorfta. I feel rather indifferent being here or in Cameroon still. I figure that after a few days or weeks being home, it will hit me that this is no break from the program, and rather that its over for good, which is a heavy thought. Cameroon was like the biggest event in my life, being the culmination of years of French, taking me away from home for the longest period ever, and also potentially influencing my personality and life decisions. Significance.
The last few days in Limbe were sad, sharing final meals, and the last time together with our staff and as a whole group in the study abroad context. We ate at Downbeach in Limbe Saturday night, where I had had two meals already. It’s a complex with drink places and grilled seafood which is just amazing. The first two times I had the bass and the capitan, as well as grilled unshelled shrimp and calamari. The last time I opted to try the crab though, which was expectedly disappointing. Being from Maryland, home of the blue crabs, I think I make it a goal in life to try and poo-poo every other crab in the world… but this one was also oddly (under?) cooked.
Sunday was airport day. Two girls said goodbye in Limbe after breakfast to be off traveling/researching in Cameroon, thus officially ending the group as a whole (reminded me a lot of the breaking of the fellowship of the ring, nerdily). Then we got back and packed (effectively on my part), then it was the final bus ride, one hour to Douala. Our flight was at 10:40pm, so we had about 7 hours to burn there, but inbetween organizing my ticket change (which turned out to be free on behalf of Air France), changing money legally and illegally (le Cameroun…), and chatting it up with friends and on the phone with Cameroon family, I kept busy without going into town. Douala is not at touristy city however, but I heard that there were some good deals going down at the nearby artisan market due to the rain hurting business earlier in the day. So we got through security around 8, said our final sad goodbyes to the staff people and flew up to France then across to America.
Air France food is really good, and was a welcome reintroduction to western cuisine. Not much else to say about the flights. Got home to New York Monday and stayed with Sis, encountered the hustle bustle life of the city, but otherwise wasn’t too culture shocked. I had to shower up really well though, since she reported I stunk a lot, in my opinion, with the scent of a pre-shower Cameroonian. Then home here to Maryland yesterday, for unpacking, laundry, and gift giving to parents. Tis all good.
I haven’t had any major culture shock yet or class guilt. I explain it that it’s because I really separate the lifestyles and systems we live here versus in Cameroon. Having huge buildings here and tons of extra stuff is excessive, but that reflects larger institutional global exploitation and a culture of excess. On an individual level it’s just how things are. I don’t feel guilty for being the American I am, I don’t think I live too excessively. Of course I wont be comfortable with all the excess I may see here, but Ill also put in work to change things outside of my everyday existence. Then personally, I know I enjnoy my hot showers and car access and constant running water and electricity, but I also know how they aren’t necessary to my core existence.
So Cameroon. A great adventure, a life changing experience I suppose. I plan to be back in a few years, to see people and finish what traveling I didn’t get to do. Before then its school and work maybe. But it will be a long time yet, considering how just last summer seems like an eternity away. Maybe I’ll keep this updated again when that trip comes along…
Till then, the end.

enfin back home remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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last stop in limbe

2007-05-11T17:15:02Z

we are back in the anglophone region, with english keyboards, a pain now after so much time with a differently placed A and M and period key and numbers. that will be the easy side of cultural readjustment.
so, left ISP which was sad enough, then leaving dschang was equally rough, after a short short few days with the original family. presentations were all interesting and so important for each person. they also marked the end of any academic work here in country. i helped cook on monday, really for the first timem doing some legumes and tomato sauce stuff. then monday night was the farewell banquet, with students and a few family members each. there were some short thank you speeches, delicious food, and a little dancin, then it was back home to pack sleep and depart. leaving tues morn was really sadm being the end of our cameroon homestays and the final goodbye to our longest family. i was so certain that i'd return, in part to reassure myself while leaving these people who had been family to me. that i do plan to do in a few years.
then it was off to beach paradise of limbe, a bit more touristy than kribi. people decided to sleep on the beach side in tents (why? not enough logic), which hasnt been quite comfortable enough. wed and thurs we spent hiking mount cameroon though, the largest peak in west and central africa, at 4095 meters. but we couldnt make it to the top due to weather and difficulty. it was rough enough getting to 2800 meters and spending a cold night camping though. legs are def sore today after the descent.
so the beach is lovely, black volcanic sand and all. today we spent some time in town, ate some great grilled fish, calamari, and shrimp, and are waiting on dinner soon enough.
everyone is sad to be parting so soon (just two days), but this touristy thing is a nice group send off and lets us unwind and hang for a bit. def i am scared about going home, leaving behind this whole incredible influential experience, jumping out of cameroonia life to go back the US. hopefully it will go smoothly enough. sunday is the flight out of douala. we'll have some time to see the economic capital before getting on the late night flight. i need to also take the time to iron out my air france changes though. then its paris and then NYC for a night with sis, then home to MD the next day (tues, 15th), for the "normal" life again.
wooooo.... to be back, such a burden..

last stop in limbe remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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back in dschang

2007-05-06T15:20:02Z

It was very sad leaving Yaoundé, though i was content to have finished once and for all, all my ISP writing, printing, copying, and binding. i think my project turned out quite well, and hope a good grade might also reflect that.
before leaving yaounde, i handled all the writing and such by thursday, then took some time to see friends in town and spent plenty of time with the fam, feasting on beignets and beer thrusday night before packing up all my junk. i managed to have plenty of space in my second bag though, so i'm feelin good for packing for the trip home.
i said my goodbyes to everyone in the family the morning of, then headed to take azinmeda voyages directly to dschang along with 4 other yaounde based students. the bus left at 1030, an hour and a half late, and oh boy do they love packing people in over here. five to a bucket seat that should seat 4 confortably. but the trip was bearable ("passable" in cameroonian). we made it to dschang ultimately at 5, and got driven home like our spoiled selves, by the program bus.
it was strange coming back, like going back to school after the summer. the city is much greener though, without any real dust now that its the rainy season. seeing the old family again was very nice, though Mama again is at the village when i arrived (just like the original arrival, hmmm). she should be getting in tomorrow. everyone is doing well in the fam. huguette is ready to burst with the babe, due mid-may. shes been bored at home for this school semester. xaverie is much the same, maybe a new boyfriend. Ingrid is studying for big Baccaloriat exam that is the culmination of high school or college equiv in the french system. and darlene is still a little "villaine." Pops goes well too.
presentations started yesterday, but only amongst people who got in friday, which didnt include ngaoundere scholars as well as a delayed sarah from yaounde. they actually arrived at the end of mine yesterday afternoon. it went alright, but the topic and all the acronyms dont leave much room for interesting storytelling. i do feel it could have went better, but the paper is def solid, so i'm confident i did alright. that marked the last work i had to do in cameroon, egads.
spent other time dropping by the tailor, who says he will finish by tomorrow night, though i fear her wont. and seeing fellow americans again is nice, and their presentations have all been really good and interesting. best topics include refugees at the cent. african rep. border, justice popularie, urban agriculture, justice system flaws, bamileke assimilation in ngdere, breast "ironing", etc etc. i fell well informed on them all now. 2 students left, my two sickly travel buds, who are going in a week i suppose.
re travelling, my flight has officially been changed back to the 13th, so yall may expect me home on the 14th in NYC, though other plans need to be finalized for getting to maryland.
i'm feeling out of place a bit in dschang, since it was my awkward transition city, without much to do or many cameroonian friends. i'm not enjoying all the walking 30 minutes to and from home, and i'm missing yaounde family, richness (shame on me), and city life. but only a couple days left, soirée tomorrow followed by an early departure tuesday to hike the mont cam'roon. then its relaxing at limbe till doula departure. just one week left in cameroon, yeesh! but i'm ready to get back to the states, missing many people (you too, probably ) and that american culture (though maybe not some aspects of the way of life). well see how the re entry goes, but i'm already on my way, with yaounde richness and actually not needing a mosquito tent here in dschang (dont know why exactly). it will be nice to get back though.

back in dschang remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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ISP almost done

2007-05-02T17:55:03Z

Much a time has passed depuis depuis, but everything is swell with me still. Been living more repetitive than other portions of the trip and/or doing less thrilling academic stuff. I’ve been splitting my time recently between writing my paper and playing pacman on the home computer. It’s a nice home-like work environment, just lacking in snood. I finished my field research last week by Wednesday, so have just really been strapped to the computer tapant tapant tapant. Paper looks good right now, with revisions and input from my (slightly above useless) advisor and mama from US (thanks again). Though its no supreme published study, I’m proud of the work I did, especially with the mad time constraint and the need to see important people.
In other news, my two travel buddies for the month of may after the program have both decided that due to their excessive tropical illnesses, they are going home early on the group flight. So Ive dealt with this issue the past few days, but decided I’d rather go home than travel alone or be lost for what to do alone. No one else is really travelling like I want to, and though I’ll be missing some interesting stuff, I still did a ton within the 3 months ive been here, and really the extra time was more like a vacation than a continued learning experience. So vacation cancelled. What is sad thought is I may not get to see my baby brother in Dschang who may be sporting my name. he is due on the 8th of may, which is the day we leave dschang for good. I’m just waiting for Lyon Travel and Air France to approve the change back, which hopefully will work out, and I should be back May 14th if all works out. I will confirm this at a later date.
I miss US stuff, but thinking already about the end of Cameroon is intense stuff. Its such a unique never repeated experience doing the program here, and I hope I made the most out of it. I’ll def miss the culture and people of these parts. It will be strange living amongst majority white people again, within a culture I actually fully understand. Plus the food here will be missed, though I hope to find some of my favorites at the Roger Miller (Cameroonian) Resto in Silver Spring once I’m back. (Coci should be added to the good food list, beans and oil in a cake form yumyumyum).
In the meantime, Dschang awaits after I print, copy and bind my ISP tomorrow. There its presentations for everyone and last minute affairs. Then it will be to Limbe for fun and unwind before the flight home. So little left! And so many goodbyes to be said in the next two weeks, yikes.

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yaounde village trip

2007-04-24T13:40:03Z

life goes well in yaounde. i'm back and busy with field work after the weekend off, and looking towards paper writing in the close future.
The village trip was fun. to and from takes about 5 hours each way in car. I only went with the parents and then papas sister from yaounde too. mamas mama also came back with us. We left at 5 am sat. way early, even though we were supposed to leave at 4... stopped for goat both too at this rest stop market thing which everyone frequents while travelling up to the west provice. before getting to bana, we stopped in baham for a burial of a yaounde prof who pops knew. most people there had travelled from yaounde, but its always about the village and family and cultural ties here in cam, so it goes down out in the rural parts. the govt does the same - both increasing ethnic differentiation and regionalism, but also preserving family connections and culture - a good example of the development vs culture struggle which is the focus of the SIT program.
The village, Bana, was very nice, but my parents said the nice building and homes were just actually personal places for the richest of the city former village folks. We stayed at pops deceased parents former home, kept for the kids to use from time to time. there were funeraimlles going on, which are big celebrations of dead people, a few years after their passing. dancing, feasting, drinking, drumming, dressing up, all going on. its basically a huge concentration of bamileke culture. myself, i didnt get into too much but was more observing, along witht hte family, which was alright. but pictures were taken.
running out of internet time means more to say about details, but cant. to sum up, village life is ahrd and my parents have strong ties there and give money to community etc. but really the village is the core of cameroon, but lacks the resources.
got back sunday, life is good. ask more later...

yaounde village trip remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Finally and Update From Yaounde

2007-04-20T21:25:02Z

This marks the third time Ive tried to write this update – slower than slow connection, very well timed electrical outage, and inability to reach that Wesleyan server have held me back. This should go through and I should be content finally.
Its been a while since last I reported from Yaounde. Well, everything goes great with the ISP and family life and all. I understand more and more why past students have said ISP is the best part of the semester. Since last whenever, I’ve had interviews with 4 big party reps, done some internet research stuff, and been handling my business like I need to. Ive also spent some time and money at the artisan shops here. A weakness of mine, though it was through a artisan vender that I made contact with the UDC party.
So I think its good to further explain my project exactly. It’s the ISP, which is the final paper everyone does for the program, on whatever topic, a month of research, about 30 to 40 pages in length. So mine is about multipartyism in Cameroon, which was first introduced in the 92 elections, but really hasn’t developed into full fledged democracy so far. The ruling party has kept majority power by party weaknesses as well as electoral fraud. So I’m out to do an evaluation of the system today. There was an extremely relevant article (“Multipartyism and Democratization in Cameroon”) I found from ‘98 which detailed the system as of then, in a project quite like mine. So I’m taking theory from that about the nature of opposition parties and am going to compare my findings with the authors, who criticizes the opposition parties for the lack of democratic progress. So firstly, I’m interviewing each major party to find out their platform and their interactions with each other. Then I’ll incorporate some analyses of the other factors working to undermine opposition party strength.
The basic analysis is that some parties are usefully radical, but are too regional or weakened by elections and ethnic differences to truly effect change. Then others don’t offer a platform truly different from the govts, and are even incorporated into the ruling structure, thus bringing into question their oppositional status. All parties match up to a distinct ethnic and regional base, but none seems primed to challenge the power structure. Then its about electoral fraud, the politics of ethnic differences and tribalist practices, then foreign intervention, which all hurt democracy here.
So those are my interests and activities. I’ve been strolling into major party buildings in the city and finding someone informed to interview. I hit the UPC Monday, UDC Tuesday, UNDP Thursday, and the CPDM (party of power) today. I need to get back to the SDF to do a formal interview with the same questionnaire. I’m at the half way point timewise, and am thus sitting pretty well. This weekend shall be break, to be detailed further in this entry.
Family life goes well. No one is much around during the week, since both parents get home late, but I too am usually out the whole day too. I cooked last Saturday – all American style meatloaf and mashed potatos. They liked it I think, though ingredients and such can be difficult in Cameroon. The touristy grocery stores in Yaounde helped, and in all it came out decently well. I also gave out the homestay gifts which went well. Its more exciting knowing they haven’t experience the white student homestay before. This weekend, as in early tomorrow, I’m off to the village with the two parents till Sunday. Their from Bana, which is near Bafang, which is in the West province, same as Dschang. Its about 5 hours from here. So that will be a fun cultural experience mehopes.
Personally, I’ve struggled with conjunctivitis of late, though I’m back in contacts for the second time. Hopefully that is all finished. I’ve been sleeping plenty though, given the looser schedule and active at night household. And Ive been eating a lot of eggs, cooking breakfast for myself everyday. There are plenty at the house though, since mama bought 150 last Wednesday, of which about 50 remain. Coffee, canned meat, and mangos have also been on the menu of late.
Taxi taking started out as a huge pain, but I’m getting used to it now. Basically, cabs pass and you say where, perhaps offer a price if its far or your pressed, then they either take you or don’t if they are headed the same direction. Three in back, from time to time, 2 passengers in the passengers seat in front. I miss the ease of New York cabs, where its illegal to refuse fares. But, you cant beat the price here – equiv of 40 cents, 1 buck for the long trips across town.
So everything goes well. I hope to enjoy the village this weekend, and hopefully interviews and research will continue all well.

Finally and Update From Yaounde remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Picture Time.

2007-04-15T09:46:25Z

Okay, I got pictures a-goin with this home computer/internet high life.
It feels sad that I can effectively sum up my trip pictures in just 8 pictures, but I’m sure they’ll serve as mega food for surprise, conversation, and commentary. I’ll come with another word update soon enough.
The pictures will follow after the text I believe, I’ll give captions
before hand.
1. Full group picture with our two older French professors. And yes I am very bien habillé, thank you.
2. Dschang Sisters after church, Ingrid, Huguette, Xaverie, left to right, with young Darlene in front.
3. Dshang Parents at home.
4. Our chat with biggest opposition leader, "the Chairman", Ni John Fru Ndi. 5. Me and Papa Shehou (Ngaoundere), at home, in our best. This is the El Hadji look.
6. Me and Ngdere sister Rachida at home, she’s cooking, I’m just posing. 7. Little Ndgere sister Fadimatou with new baby Abdul-Nassif Nathan.
8. And lastly, top of Mount Ngaoundere with Diana

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A Tale of 3 Villes

2007-04-12T07:40:02Z

Sorry its been a while, but all the missing stories will be explained... to follow: leaving Ngaoundere, through Kirbi, to Yaounde, where I now rest, rolling with the Independent Study Project...
Leaving Ngdere wasn’t too sad. My father saw me off, but little else was of interest. After several free days and little to do, I was ready for the next step. Definitely a big one though, since it was ISP time after the short vacation. One girl stayed up in Ngdere, another two stopped in Yaounde and didnt go on to kribi (one to Bamenda after to figure out her project), so sadly, the group all togetherness ended here. But our PACA girls came to see us off at the train station which was really nice.
The train back down to Yaounde wasnt nearly as bad, mainly cuz most of us (including me) were in sleeper cars. Thus I slept in a nice normal bed and the lights actually could be turned off during the night. Coming back to Yaounde for that little time was neat, and we stopped by the mission to drop off people then hit the boulangerie, where i helped myself to sme icecream and a quiche (oh the city...).
Then off to Kribi via bus. We got in thursday night, and had some time to swim and hang out in the warm, but cloudy weather. We were staying in a hotel right on the beach, as in 10 yards of beach, then 20 yards of hotel patio, then around the corner to my room. The beaches are lovely there, though I knew what to expect so it was less exciting. The water was so warm too, which was actually disappointing for cooling off, but I aint complaining. So we had dinner at the hotel restaurant that night, which took forever to come out, so we were all starving. Then Friday I spent with Sarah, Katrina, and Jettie going in town a bit, where we had some awesome grilled mackral, as is the typical meal in Kribi, and visited some artisan shops. The town isnt too big, but seemed to have many restaurants and touristy things. One day didnt suffice to see it. The rest of the day we spent on the beach, drinking out of cocunut shells and relaxing. Can’t say I enjoyed the coconut milk (which is really more like juice or water) sadly. That was a real disappointment in my life, cuz I always expected otherwise. Dinner we had in the group out at “maison africaine.” On the menu? Snake, Antelope, porcupine, full bodied shrimp. Delicious I know. Some other girls ate monkey earlier in the day. For me it was the antelope, which tasted a lot like beef. I enjoyed it. I was coming down with a cold though and thus didnt feel up to trying the other delicacies. Antoher time most certainly. Again though the restaurant took forever – we were there for 3 hours beginning to end. It must be more the laid back africanness with the service round those parts.
So my cold led to a fever and then runny nose and always fatigue. The fever was gone by saturday morning through, but I got me some pink eye by Sunday! Hooray. Twas expected tp happen during this trip though, since I seem to be susceptible in life. Thus I was perpared with meds too. Its about gone now after some medicine days, and hopefully I’ll be back in contact by tomorrow or Friday if I want to play it safe.
But thats all in Yaounde, yes. We travelled back to town on Saturday, where I hung at the mission a bit, then got a bite and grabbed a cab to my quartier, Biyem-Assi (or Biye-Massi, depending on I dont know what). Its a bit out of the center of town but is still in the city very much. And my family is loaded! Mama and Papa both work, papa a doctor of facial illnesses, Mama a nurse for FammCam, an org we visited during SIT’s time here. Then two kids – Cedric, age 16, and Raissa, age 14, who are both doing a highschool type thing. Raissa just got in yesterday from visting family in Douala over Easter break, but we hung today and get along well. Cedric Ive been seeing plenty of, and hes nice but a bit shy. There is also the maid, Sydoney, who works during the day. Everyone is so nice and its been great so far. And I’m the one and only American in the family’s history, which makes things more exciting.
When I talk about richness, I’m talking a house just like orus back home, except with a maid even. They got 2 cars, a gated house (same as in dschang though), 2 fridges, a microwave (!), satellite TV in the parents room, computers, and even internet in the house, though I’ve still yet to use it. Then of course electricity and running water, which are both seldom cut. So its a nice digs, especially for my project, since I can both write and do interenet research at home, into any hour of the night. Food has also been good so far, and I4m cooking Saturday whcih should work out alright...
So moved in and got to know them saturday. Sunday morning was easter, so I headed to their church in my finest. Many people here sport all white, and there were many baptisms that went on. The service in all was 3+ hours, including communion, which I took after hearing from my father how lutheranism developed into the eglise evangelique du cameroun from German colonial roots. In all the service was nothing too special, despite it being easter. The church is I believe under construction, so we were in a “hangar” – wooden building with a dirt floor and a metal roof.
Sunday afternoon there was a tontin reunion at my house. That refers to a Bamileke custom of sharing money in the family. Basically people give money to the pot each month, however much they want. Then a select few, based on rotation, collect the equivelant money that they gave in a lump sum. It basically functions as an informal savings and loan system, and lets people save up to make large purchases or have money for needs. The system has been in the family for very long time.
So monday I started actually working on my project. I spent the day at the US embassy library, way out in Bastos (40 minutes, 1 dollar cab ride, which is expensive here). Found some good articles, but was still feeling a bit ill so I came back and napped, then just hung around.
Tuesday I walked to the university and then called an SDF contact I had, who had me come straight to the national assembly. I arrived, was greeted by his secretary who wondered if theyd let me in wearing jeans and a t-shirt, officially not allowed i the assembly office building. They did, ayb just cuw i was white, and I made my way up, then chatted with my contact guy for about an hour in his office. Turns out he is the parliamentary group leader of the SDF, meaning he is the highest ranking elected public official of the largest opposition party in cameroon. Nice right? So I wasnt even really prepared for the interview, having not expected it to go down so suddenly, and in having not yet talked with my advisor. But i suppose it went okay, though I’ll need to go back and speak with him or someone else on other specific topics I didnt get to.
Later tuesday was my first advisor meeting. I failed to arrive where he said in a cab, but i think he gave me bad directions. Anyways, I eventually was told to wait for him at a gas station near his office place. Then I waited and waited for over an hour till he finally came in car. By then it was past my official curfew given by SIT, but i was at least glad that he came at all. He was really preoccupied I found out and busy, but he agreed to be the advisor and we chatted a bit about the project. Thursday is our first real meeting, which I should be able to get to on my own. I headed home after 8 and crashed last night.
Then Wednesday I spent with freshly-arrived, still-on-break sister Raissa. We walked around the quartier some and visited papa at work down the road. Then we tagged along with him on an errand to the minister of health, which happened to be right near the Minister for Terratorial Administration, which is the current branch that organizes elections in Cameroon. So i stopped in a got myself a contact for later this week. I wasnt planning on doing any work after hectic yesterday, but this worked out nicely.
So I’m playing it as I go with the project so far, without many set contacts. More advisor help and contact guidance is needed, but Ive been quite busy the past few, still at least know what I’m doing tomorrow. Its a total of 27 days in Yaounde, which at the same time seems long and short. Hopefully I can really get underway with the project, and of course am hoping it comes out well. But I also have loads to do online, since ive been putting everything off, and also gotta get shopping in town again at some point.
So, until next time, likley from chez moi...
....This entry was written and saved yesterday just before an electrical outage. Thus, submittal thursday morning is what had to happen. Oh l’afrique...

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For Real Leaving Ngdere

2007-04-04T12:40:02Z

Wasting time my last day in ngaoundere. This morning was the little party amongst men for the baby, but it wasn’t interesting. They just assembled, were each given a plastic gift bag filled with kola nuts and candy, then said a five minute prayer in Arabic. Was in all a bit awkward for me… but the name of the kid I have now: Abdul-Nassif Nathan. There may be another name added to the end there, but I’m in it! So that’s exciting.
Its been annoying me that i forgot to mention the potato like foods we very often also eat up round here : you got your basic potatos, then your patates, which are sweeter tasting, then your ignams, which are almost bitter tasting, and are the yams that are so commonly mentioned along with west Africa. Then there is also macabo, which is another, but I’m not sure ive eaten it. Also, manyock is a rock thing from somewhere, but is ground up to make a rubbery starch dish or is made into couscous manyock. Thus the root starches. I wanted to also mention the drinks here. Ive been drinking my fair share of soda – “jus” according to them. They got coke, and sprite, and orange fanta. Then they also have 4ish fruit flavors of this drink called top, of which I’m a big fan. Kola nuts, mentioned above, big traditional thing about respect and friendship. Chiefs get a ton. but i could never be chief i decided today, because i think they taste nasty.
Leaving on the train for yaounde then to kribi in 2 and a half hours. We get sleeping cars this time though, so I’m looking forward to that, if it works out. Ngaoundere has been interesting but also boring (opposites, kinda, but not really in this context). ISP is literally around the corner, so I’m anxious about that, but think it should go down pretty well. I nee d to arrange my housing, advisor and get some interview lined up in the next few days though. The computer I’m using has Word 2007, which is really bizarre for me using here…

For Real Leaving Ngdere remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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ngdere final one

2007-04-02T12:05:02Z

Ca va here in ngaoundere. We’ve been working (but not too busily) on our PACA project from last Tuesday through Saturday, with the final report due in just a half hour, no problem. The work here in general is not too challenging. For example, we have our second part of the final CDS exam tomorrow, for which we have to write an essay of our choice, which we prepare before hand but write there; its not analytical, but mainly facts, about whatever we want. So I’m not too worried about that. Meanwhile life has been slow at home. I wake up every morning with no one there, spend the excessive free time doing some ISP reading or travel planning, then meander my way into town for whatever reason, recently PACA related. I did go see the new baby Saturday afternoon, and he is doing well. My sisters and brothers are over there too, and they were all glad to see me for a bit, I hope. The walk there and back took a while though, since it’s really a nearby village. I broke out my new tunic and matching hat Saturday too, and instead of calling me Nasara (white person in fulfulde) people used El-Hadji, meaning one who has finished the pilgrimage to mecca; quite amusing. Friday morning I hiked up Mont Ngaoundere with Diana, which was fun. It took about an hour and a half to go up, just 30 to get down and back. It aint too high, and is all rocky. The mountains here are all just stacks of rocks, and often look unnatural. It’s definitely interesting. Mt: Ngdere for instance, has a distinguishing big round rock on top. I took pictures of it all, but that’s for once I get back.
So I realize I haven’t given much description of food here since I came. Definitely worth mentioning. As was said to be the case, most meals involve a sauce with a few pieces of meat in it, accompanied by a starch. In Dschang I most often ate rice with fish in tomato sauce, as was the preferred meal for my Papa there. Also ate peanut sauce or legumes (like spinach, ish?), most often with fish, but beef once or twice too. Starches there were generally rice, but also plantains from time to time (home food there was not that diverse and interesting, honestly) For lunch in town I had similar stuff though, chicken from time to time, beef maybe, but also yogurt and bread from the bakery once in a while, plus some fruit from time to time (as it is everywhere here. I’m surprised I haven’t eaten more) – including bananas, pineapple, papayas, oranges, mangos, and maybe others. Many girls are all over the fruit more than me, but it also often leads to sickness due to non hygienic-ness. For breakfast in Dschang it was always bread and Nescafe, sometimes with avocados. Up North, the food of choice is cous-cous mais, aka foufou in English. It’s a ball of gooey corn starch eaten by hand. Ive had that with a variety of strange sauces, made from gumbo (a pepperish vegetable), peanuts, and other things I don’t know. Beef is the meat here, no question. The fish Ive had have been bad, and I haven’t tasted chicken since I got here. All over there are also dishes like rice or pasta (mainly spaghetti) mixed with tomato sauce, usually without meat. And you can also find basic grilled meats or meat based sauces, and also eggs. Hard to explain and encompass all, but I generally am pleased by the food in this land. The only dish I haven’t liked is Ndole, which is this bitter legume… bleh. But interestingly enough I ordered literally liver and onions yesterday for lunch (with macaroni), which was actually really good.
So the PACA thing was alright, but I don’t think we helped the community much, and they were already pretty much decided on a project of bringing in potable water. We’re not the ones to provide the means though, so it ended kinda openly and uselessly. That’s finished now, leaving us with the essay exam tomorrow, then for me a party with the men for the baby on Wednesday, then a depart for Kribi via yaounde on the train, then bus, fro Wednesday to Thursday. A few days on the beach, then off to ISP land.

ngdere final one remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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back with more from ngaoundere

2007-03-29T12:00:02Z

sorry to have kept yall waiting; it was only 6 days away though. i havent bee frequenting the internet cafes here, despite some extra free time. also they were down the past two days anyways.
so ngaoundere has been alright. i've been chilling with the cockroaches, and we have a lights on, lights off understanding for the most part. some big freaky spiders have made a few appearances as well. the family life has gone alright, though my pregnant mother had been sick for the past weekish. the 11 year old has been cooking relatively simple stuff, which i ultimately prefer over chunks of cow fat attached to bone served with couscous mais (and thus eaten by hand). news earlier yesterday had been that my mama and kids were going to go stay with the grandmother for 3 weeks to be taken care of, and the little boy was already over there. i was to stay alone with my papa, which i was not looking forward to. since, however, mama had her baby! last night at 11pm at the hospital, a baby boy. i visited her twice during the day since we had class stuff near there, but have not seen her or the newborn since the delivery. i believe she still is going to be with the kids at the grandmothers, but now i have a better reason to visit. papa has been worrying about paying for the medical bills, which are incredibly much cheaper than the US (30 dollars, converted), but still a heavy burden for the family. so that is whats going on chez moi.
school has been about doing a PACA project with a local community. PACA stands for participatory analysis for community action, and is a tool used by groups like Peace Corps to guide local communities to determine community needs. there are 40 community members participating, split into 4 groups: men, women, boys, and girls (aged 14-24, and not married for the latter two), and each is matched with 3-4 students. so this project occurs over a 4 days period for 2 hours a day, longer on the last which is a full community affair, and hopefully will result in a community action plan, for which they may or may not get resources from a separate NGO. so its good in the giving back sense, but problematic a bit in the we're-not-qualified-to-do-this sense. i'm with the girls group, and its going well so far, since they seem more open to the ideas and activities. only one day down so far, though.
around town... ive been doing some fabric buying and such, got myself a stylin embroidered tunic and getting the matching hat tomorrow. ive also bought two pagnes of fabric at the marché, to be sewn in yaounde or dschang. everyone has been frequenting a milk bar, where they have good yogurt, and weve gone for folere, a local juice thing, a few times. i live around a number of other students, so ive also been visiting them a bit. what else... not too busy, but not too bored. ive been watching plenty of TV at home, but we only get one channel. my ipod is nice at night. and ive been getting plenty of sleep, except never around about 5am, thanks to the mad loud prayer calls from the next door mosque.
ISP stuff i've been slacking on, mainly because a lack of resources here. however, ive changed my topic slightly to now be about evaluating multipartyism in cameroon. its basically the same pattern of research, but now more focused instead of being about democracy here in general. this topic interests me a bit more, and i hope to be able to implement it without much problem.
no more campement of elephants on the schedule, which i believe was just an animal observing thing (but actually no elephants), but i plan to do something similar in may on my own. instead we are leaving early for kribi to hang out at the beach a bit early. that is monday. maybe you'll hear from me before then, but no promises.

back with more from ngaoundere remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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From Ngaoundere with Love

2007-03-23T16:10:02Z

Been in Ngaoundere since Tuesday and have had a good time settling in, learning about the culture round here, and exploring the town a bit.
Train from Yaounde was long - 16 hours in total, from 6pm to 10 the next day. We sat first class, which costs about 34 US Ds, but that translated really just to a little more foot room on a train out of the 60s (if it were in the US). So i got barely any sleep, since i like to lay down myself. I'm still feeling the effects of that.
We stayed in a protestant dormitory place the first night, but had a little time to explore the town. But I felt like a zombie, being so sleep deprived. The terrain is very different - more desert like, and once again some dust, though not as bad as dschang. The people are really different in nature here too - a lot less staring and a LOT less attention. We dont get hardly any hellos or calls or les blancs etc from people, but everyone we've met has been super polite and helpful though. I ended up eating at the same place for lunch, with friends by random choice, and dinner, by choice of program planners, the first day. Sleep felt good, but wasnt even enough.
Day two we did some class stuff, learning how to function round here, in the very Islamic-influenced culture. That topic stuff continued to today, but along with intensive fulfulde language study. We moved into homestays in the afternoon after a film session, but there was no soiree like in dschang, just a drop off at each house.
So, homestay: I am living with the Shehou family, who have hosted students (almost all male) for the past 18 semesters. The father is a mason, about 42. Three kids, ages 3 (boy), 6 and 11 (both girls). The MAma is younger and bursting with a baby inside, due any time now. Only the father and the 11 year old speak French. Thus the family life is one in fulfulde. That is pretty crazy, of course. My fulfulde is terrible, with only 6 horus of formal training, but I get by enough talking when i need to, and playing is a universal language. I really love my family right now, and having the kids is so fun. I resent the fact that I'm just one of a long list of whites to have stayed, but I'll make the best of it, and try to make an impression. The newborn whose coming has been rumored to be name nathan, if a boy, which is very interesting to deal with, since that was said just the first night. that would be a lasting impression though...
Facilities: the exact opposite of dschang for me. I have my own room and bathroom, which gives me privacy for once, though. But I got a hole for a toilet and not a drop of running water. There is electricity and they have a TV, though it only gets one channel. Food is cooked in a separate kitchen, over a fire, as it was in the chefferie. But it all works. Hole use is not difficult, and more natural, even prefered by several other students on the program now (don't think i'll follow that path myself). Oh, and cockroaches. There is a party in my room and bathroom every night, but they dont make noise, they're just gross. I think I'm going to treat my room tonight though, so no longer any company.
The Muslim life is way difft. Each family is selected in part because they are Muslim. But 5 prayers a day is wild: 5am, 1:30, 3:30, 6:30, 7:30. All at the mosque. And kids go to Koranic school in the morning and afternoon, surrounding the the regular school times. That can never be a life for me. Definitely nothing like any occidental religion. I live right next to the grande mosquée, which is easy for directions, but terrible because i am woken at 5 every morning by loudspeaker prayer calls. Its interesting.*
So that is Ngaoundere so far. Its an interesting life. I dont love the city, but it will be a great experience. internet kinda sucks, but i'll try to keep up. I'm thinking Yaounde for ISP i'll be back on the technology thing. But I'll get back in the meantime at some point.

From Ngaoundere with Love remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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leaving yaounde

2007-03-19T14:50:02Z

how to get this done with one minute of cyber time left??? yaounde the last few days hasn't been too eventful, but has been enjoyable. i'm looking forward to coming back for the ISP. its off to ngaoundere now though with a new fam and new culture. wish me luck!

leaving yaounde remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Yaoundé Continues

2007-03-16T08:35:02Z

what is it? five more days in yaounde? its been relatively enjoyable. i'm over any illness that i had (pretty quickly, a tribute to my immune system). We've visited a numer of new places: US Peace Corps, Volunteer Services Overseas (both were looking to recruit), Mutations Press (newspaper), and the UIS embassy, where we met with the ambassador. Can anyone name the ambassador? I dont even remember his name, honestly, but its just interesting to know that he is such a well-known icon here, yet completely unknown to us back home. That is the case with so many publuic officials however. It's just a big world.
Freetime since has been spent shopping around, and I've definitely have spent more here that anywhere before. It's silly though, since many of the crafts and souvenirs i buy now I can get elsewhere and avoid carrying around for the whole trip. But I am content with my purchases, even though I dont bargain dsown enough from time to time. I havent even spent much so far, so I'm not concerned. In fact yesterday was the first time I've visited an ATM here, and I shouldn't have to again for a while, after.
I've been spending all my other time doing preliminry research for my ISP. I spent time online, at libraries (including the US embassy's, which was oh so helpful), and took some time to chat with a professor the other day. Ive been struggliung with narrowing my topic, but I believe Ive mostly settled now: future prospects for further democratizing Cameroon. I'll be researching from articles and books, talking to political party reps, and evaluating voter apathy and publis opinion. Newest change of it all is thatI've decided to do it here in Yaounde. So I'll be here the whole month of April, with the lovely resources and computers and big city feel. It should be good. I'll be staying with some new family or person during the time here, and still need to determine that and figure out who might be my advisor. Seems that the plurality of students are doing their project in Dschang, which is alright, since I am not trying to hang out with Americans all the time I'm here. So more work to be done on that, but it might just wait until April at this point.
We're here till monday, then off to very new things in Ngaoundere.

Yaoundé Continues remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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been gone for a minute but now i'm back with the YAOUNDE

2007-03-12T13:40:02Z

been in Yaounde since wednesday, but have just now got to a cyber cafe. i was surprised and relieved that i didnt have too much interneting to catch up on. this entry should take up some time, though.
it was kinda sad to leave dschang. i definitely liked my homestay family, but wwas also ready for a new experience. my family made spaghetti tuesday night, which i really appreciated, in part becaue it was tasty. they were nice enough to walk me out to the road to get picked up on wednesday morning too. i'm looking forward to seeing them again in april or maybe may. and i'm definitely excited to see the baby on the way from sister huguette (have i mentioned this?) its due in mid-may.
the trip to yaounde was done in the van and took only six hours. we're staying at a mission quite centrally located, which has toilets and hot running water. its been a lot more like dorm life this week, though, just being around students in 2-4 person rooms. I'm staying with Boniface, the ever gentil assistant academic director. its been great though, and lets me speak at least a little french. spending a lot more time amongst fellow students has been fun, but is not helping us with cultural insight.
the city is huge, and i am permanently lost. there is a map in my guidebook that helps, and taxis just drive us everywhere. we've actually been out after dark now too, which is exciting, but definitely necessary since there is far less to do at home here than there was in dschang.
so wednesday afternoon we had some free time about the city, which i spent with Winnie just exploring and looking for a bar to chat it up with some cameroonians. by great chance we stumbled upon 4 elegantly dressed business men who invited us over and paid for our drinks. turns out, one was the mayor of a large neighborhood it town (300,000 consituents), so it was great talking to him about grassroot style politics. he told me that has a campaign coming up in june where he'll go door to door, and gave me a lot of good insight into the political system here, which might also help me out for my ISP. after, one of his staffers (his companions) also bought us each a CD, and the whole meeting was just one of the highlights of my trip, to have such luck like that. we're hoping to get together with them again, also to bring others along and have an informal talk about local politics here in cameroon.
thursday was la journée international des femmes, or international women's day (this doesnt exist in the US?), which is a big holiday here in Cameroon. Women sew themselves dresses in matching fabric and go march with their commuinity organizations. being in yaounde, it was probably the biggest parade in the country, overlooked by the presidents wife, chantal biya. a few students marched while we all watched, then after we went and hung out with MUFFA, which is a women's micro-credit organization. they were partying it up and we got to chat with the ladies, then learned a bit more in a formal setting. a fun day in all.
friday was a busy day. 3 consecutive 2-3 hour meetings with NGOs - CAMFAMM (social security), SIL (preserving native languages), and CED (environmental advocacy). then, we had our first west african dance class, where we learned some guinean moves. i also stopped by the city Hilton, where christianne (program director)'s brother was presenting his water purification powder along with his japanese company. quite impressive natural chemical stuff, straight cleaned water of dirt (but not bacteria). so all those presentations and classes were interesting. we ate out on our own for dinner, and i went to chinese across the street with a few and got really good squid and other non-cameroonian food.
but friday night i got sick in the stomach. caused probably by a tuna pizza i had eaten earlier at a boulangerie. so i spent some time friday night throwing up, and have since been having "digestive issues," which i think are calming down now. i have self diagnosed and all and am thinking it should clear up soon. saturday i spent in bed, missing some ISP planning talk and the second (seemingly awesome) african dance class. i also failed to eat the best foods to help, but i'm making sure to take it easy today.
so sunday i felt good enough to go with Sarah Oh to a korean missionary's. being korean, she was spotted in town saturday by a couple who were visiting to decide whether the man would become a missionary here... so we took a long cab ride across town to a huge building on a hill. Rev. Yoon, who is the man in charge there, had been in country for 20 years and had built the huge church in yaounde along with 60+ others around the country. we spent plenty of time talking to him before and after the service, and even got to eat lunch at his house with Rev. Kim (the visiting guy), and their two wives. it was korean food and i was so pleased (but this is an example of the food i shouldnt have been eating while sick). the church was populated entirely by cameroonians, and only he clergy was korean. i had an overall positive impression of the whole thing, despite some curious opinions anc comments by the korean pastors about culture. but Rev Yoon was just so hospitable, so again, another memorable experience here. The home made korean food in cameroon was definitely unexpected and awesome.
so spent the rest of the day relaxing, and today we only visited the US peace corps to learn a bit. i am putting in my time after on the internet, catching up and changing my flight back (31st, still).
the city is strange, because we've encountered a lot of tourist-geared restaurants and other places, with english speakers and white clientele. I havent got to exploree enough yet, but am hoping to do so and hit up the huge art market and to also find some authentic culture around these parts.
think that is enough for now... take care and feel free to contact me.

been gone for a minute but now i'm back with the YAOUNDE remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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life with chief keleng

2007-03-05T11:10:02Z

got back yesterday from my stay at the Keleng village chefferie. the village is very close to town ("en ville," in fact according to the chief), and is ironically closer to my homestay house in dschang than is the SIT office. thus, it wasn't so much of a rural stay, but it was interesting seeing a different style of life round these parts.
The chef/chief has two of his own wives, but inherited many others from his father (but i do not believe they are on the same level of intimacy as the two). I went along with Rachel, who was kept close because she is getting over typhoid fever. the chef is actually the coordinator for all the chefferie stays for us students. many children of all ages amongst us, but we each got our own room. the houses of the chef and wives were quite nice and we were allowed to use the chef's bathroom, which was tidy and had a toilette, but no running water. electricity was a yes as well.
got in thursday, but had nothing to do until dinner. we did chat with the chef a bit and did our introductions. each of the two wives cooks for him and their children, in two separate outdoors-ish kitchens. we ate heartily during the entire stay there. i also slept aplenty.
friday morning we went out to do some work in the fields with the chef, clearing old banana trees and debris to allow for new cultivation. i got to use the machete a bit, which was cool. not too much work friday, as we came in early to accept a visit from christianne (our academic director), who brought along the US SIT study abroad application coordinator for west africa, who was getting introduced to the program components in person. after they left, some nap time and down time. i did plenty of reading throughout the weekend. i played with the kids a bit too, and got to chat with the older ones.
saturday we spent in the fields a bit further from home, along with the daughters of one wife. they cultivated the whole thing - which is a process of bend over or on the knees chopping dirt forever. quite painful and tidious. i couldn't handle much of it myself, but rachel was active for most of the day, quite impressive. blisters on us both, however. after the work we came back to repose aka nap and sit around. dinner again came fairly late but was again filling and tasty.
sunday morning we leisured around a bit. i tried to help fix two separate computers - one of the chef's sons', which seemed hopeless and some mechanism issue, and the other of the neighbor of the chef, who also happens to be assistant director for SIT here, who had just got used computer from the US, but couldnt get it to operate in french. i was unsuccessful helping with each. the latter really made me think about the whole process of second hand stuff to africa - our old junk becomes their livelihood - which is also quite visible in clothing and cars. rachel said it well with the idea that there is no such consumer goods produced with the intent to sell to cameroonians, or for people of most developing nations for that matter.
we headed out late sunday morning, after which i spent the day at home in dschang with the family or chilling alone. the whole chef visit was great, being in a huge family, seeing kids playing and all and getting to know more people round our age. the wives and chef were really hospitable and open, so it was a great experience.
headed out to yaounde on wednesday morning to stay in a mission for a week and a half. ISP is around the corner, in the beginning of april, and i seem to be headed towards studying the idea of democracy in cameroon, as a foreign or naturally indigenous institution. i still gotta iron out details and my plan, and my subject may still change as i learn about different new things.
ive also been considering extending my stay as was planned. many students are heading out early, some others doing different things. the group most fitted to what i want to do is staying till the 31st, so that might be my plan. i need to get in touch with lyon travel today or tomorrow and settle it.
so all goes well. i'm missing american things or all varities, but hope that i will find more interesting stuff in yaounde, which has a totally different culture and is a huge city top explore.
just two more days

life with chief keleng remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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decided to update before disappearance

2007-02-26T11:55:02Z

its been what i consider a normal week in dschang. had plenty of school work, but not excessive amounts. i spent the weekend planning for our development discussion about tribalism, interviewing folks about that and about ethnicity in general. i also skipped church and did laundry on sunday, which was tough but rewarding work. there was a tough power outage from mid saturday through mid sunday; poor lighting is annoying in the bathroom, and kills the tv-centered culture, but also i couldnt charge my cell phone or ipod. that kinda thing would be a problem in a tight situation, since i have no other means of communication. also no running water when there's no electricity, so we were running quite low on reserves until this morning. nothing especially interesting, though.
to correct a prior entry, the family's favorite show is in fact a comedy, not a soap opera, and its actually from burkina faso. there was another burina faso show on last night, so perhaps there is a decent afro-hollywood establishment round those parts. also some dubbed brazilian soap opera is often on everywhere here but i would really feel like i was wasting my time if i actually watched that while here.
what i have started doing is reading a lovely book i found in the SIT office - Star Wars: Tales from Jabba's Palace. I actually own it at home and i guess read it years ago, but its fun, and really takes me away entirely from the culture here. its a bizzare mental transition between that exotic space culture and this different kind of african life i am trying to lead. but i enjoy being able to do some fiction reading, at least.
upcoming: a new outfit, a bit more stylish, should be sweet. and after that, a rural bamileke village stay at unknown location from thursday through sunday. that will be interesting. but that also means i'll be out of computer range and possible cell range during that time. so wish me luck in that adventure. i'll give the full report for that in a week.

decided to update before disappearance remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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further settled in dschang

2007-02-23T16:10:01Z

life goes on in dschang. i've had a fairly busy week, having to do my one-time report on the weekly news, amongst the typical french essays. also am co-leading a "development discussion" next week to be about tribalism. in general, more free time would help to get everything i need to get done, done.
a group dinner last night was fun. we bought and cooked our own for the first time here at the SIT office. spaghetti stir fry, guacomole, and chocolate chunk cookies were on the menu. i did what i could to help, including cutting onions and polishing off the extra food. quite good. i was also quite stuffed. group dynamic is feeling pretty good, but being the only guy is i think really going to be a marker of my experience, but i just have to deal with it.
we were encouraged today to make more community friends and connections, which can be hard with our tight schedule. of course the way things work in the area is that everyone recognives us, standing out as a pack of white students, while we are just trying to get by, walking fast to class or talking amongst ourselves, perhaps coming off as a bit rude. having extra time is really an issue though, since our curfew is 630 and my walk home takes half an hour. at best i get just 2 and a half hours (and perhaps lunchtime) any weekday to handle any shopping, internet, and any homework that i have to do outside of the house. then of course you dont want to shy away from any family time, which also discourages getting out on sundays. what time we have here doing anything is wonderful, but really exploring the community is hard with the restraints we have. i will try though...
planning on working in the family field tomorrow. they do potatoes, but on a very small next door plot. we'll see how i feel getting my hands (very) dirty for the first time. laundry is also needed, along with another pair of pants. i probably should have packed more of those, in retrospect.
trip to a rural village later next week should be very interesting, but i am looking forward to life in a chefferie. much more can be said about that once it happens.
note: the prior entries- the first was emailed before completion because of finger slippage. it took too long to get into the blog website, so i didnt get a chance to delete it. obviously, just bother reading the more recent one.
till next time...

further settled in dschang remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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bamenda

2007-02-19T12:05:02Z

Trip to Bamenda this past weekend was so much fun. The city is the largest in the anglophone province which is the area originally colonized by the brits, constituted by the two farthest west provinces. It was nice getting to speak english in public for a change, and I did a fair bit of shopping (I am finding this quite amusing right now, because i wrote an essay in french about pretty much the same things).
Anyways, we arrived friday morning. During our time there we stayed in a baptist mission which had hot, running water and delicious breakfasts. Again I was in with the Cameroonian staff men, but oh my lord, Gaston, driver guy, snored like a jet engine. I somehow survived and slept a bit. Food was good overall, and we got buffet style deliciousness at a restaurant for dinner both friday and saturday.
Friday included a lecture on HIV/AIDS, which is obviously fairly prominent here and also a trip to a traditional chiefdom, which was interesting. the architecture and furniture and all were quite unimpressive, but the culture was there with the chief and his actual administrative control over the large area.
Saturday, we got time during our "drop off" to explore the city and buy things. Bamenda is known for its fabric, so I got two pagnes (six yards) to have more things made. I did not buy any art or stuff yet, maybe regrettably, though I expect to find more in Yaounde or even in Dschang on market day. ME and the two girls I was with ate lunch at a hole in the wall place, which was tasty and dirt cheap (ie 1 dollar for all three). those places run some small health risk, but are the way people do it here. Saturday afternoon we heard from a group fighting for the creation of a separate anglophone cameroon state (southern cameroons). a big issue in cameroon is the political and population dominance of the francophone area over the oil-rich anglophones. This group considered it a colonisation of the region and are working through international orgs to remedy the issue. I think similar problems of minority non-representation can be found in many african states, stemming a lot from colonisation and the many ethnic groups which get boggled together. Their perspective on the matter was interesting and might be worth watching in the coming years.
Sunday we spent with John Fru Ndi, who is the leader of the largest national political opposition party, the Social Democratic Front. He was first to force Cameroon to allow multiple party elections and was robbed of the presidency in 1992. IT was truly an honor to be granted time with him. We went to his church in the morning. The building was really large, there was great music in the service, although the service lasted 3 hours. Fru Ndi's whole SDF posse was with him, as it was a big get together for many SDFers. He himself spoke a bit during the service, then later, mid-service they auctioned off plantane bunches to raise money, which was really curious. In the afternoon, we headed to Fru Ndi's compound in the city where there was a political rally, with a couple groups (including us) giving him "new ears wishes," as is common in cam official stuff. After that he fed us and we got a chance for some q and a with the man himself. that was very interesting, and i got my questions in too. by the time the day was finished it was too late to drive back, so we spent another night at a separate mission, then headed out this morning.
Bamenda was fun and is encouraged me to think about travel to another anglo african country sometime. The entire political experience we had was also really interesting, and could somehow fit into my ISP at the end of the program.
Now its back to Dschang and school for 9 days. and by the way, a girl got malaria, but its really nothing to fear - its normal business over here. im staying comfortably healthy myself so far, fortunately.

bamenda remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Bamenda Partay

2007-02-19T11:45:01Z

Bamenda Partay remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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typical day

2007-02-15T15:35:02Z

okay, being that it is difficult to really communicate how things go over here, i'll try to give a detailed account of my everyday existence.
wake up at 650, usually before though, due to roosters crowing around the neighborhood or loud family members or a loud radio in the next room. people get uip early here, for sure. then i make my way to the bathroom, handle some business, flush the toilet by pouring down water from a bucket. then i gotta transfer water from the big bucket into a smaller and take my cold bucket shower. i feel pretty clean over here so far, which is nice. my towel needs washing though, it stinks. go back to my room and change into whatever not quite clean outfit, then go to the kitchen to eat breakfast of french bread and nescafe. usually no one is out there with me - either sleeping or gone already (im not even sure). say a few goodbyes then leave the house at 730 to walk to class/the SIT program at the university. i usually walk with diana who lives further down the road than me. we pass many people walking to work or school and plenty of motos. the road is all paved, and we get to enjoy an excellent view or inhabited mountains. the walk is downhill and takes about 30 minutes walking at an american pace. if we're late we are supposed to pay 50 francs (10 cents). i am strongly against this punishment thing.
there are 3 class sessions during the day. either french (in groups of 3-4 along with a prof, sit outside), or full group lectures on specific topics. during lunch break from 12 to 130, well split into (still changing) groups and walk into town to go to a restaurant or bakerie and get something. usually costs about 1.50 to 4 bucks to eat, even at restaurants. the walk to and from most places in town is about 20 minutes. classes end at 3:30 typically, unless we have to watch a movie or do something else.
after class, i might hit up the internet cafe back in town, do some work at the sit office in town, buy necessities or walk home. ive been getting home around 530 on average. i have to knock at the gate and someone lets me in. to clarify, i live alone with my cam family, and each student is in a different home. the families all speak only french. once home, ill set down my things and change into sandals. i then do any number of things - homework (french essay or project or something), play with darlene, talk with family members, or watch tv. dinner is usually at 8, and my family is unique in that most of the members eat together, except Papa, who eats later usually. the tv is on during dinner. i help set and clear the table. after dinner, always take my malaria pill, and might do work or watch tv. i try to get to bed before 10.
in all cameroon, traffic is crazy and crossing the street can be an adventure. you usually walk on a semi-paved sidewalk or on the side of the road to avoid the dust. dust on dirt roads is annoying, but fortunately, i spend little time on them.
bugs are not a big issue, but they exist. plenty of flies during the day, but they hardly bother you (make no noise, cant feel them land). at home, bugs are not an issue, maybe because my house is quite nice. live animals around town can be interesting or annoyinga. chickens and goats are very common, marked with some symbol of ownership, but let free to wander. there is a goat family that i pass each morning and afternoon near my house.
lotsof people around town always, and many stare at the whities. since everyone walks, it is the case.
so life for me is relatively comfortable. other people have it much worse, with a hole to go in, less electricity, and nasty bugs. i hope to not downgrade too much during my homestay in ngoundere.
so that is my life...

typical day remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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some snipets of life

2007-02-14T15:30:01Z

i wanted to give some snipets about life here to give some better idea about how it all is. also the basic updates.
the dust for me is better. i followed advice from a number of locals and drank lemon juice and honey. with tissane tea is even better. that has cured me, and will again. clothes and shoes staying clean is an issue though, always.
my new african outfit is totally sweet. i got a hooded long sleeve shirt and matching pants in a blue diamond covered fabric. i'd like to put a picture of it (and me) up, but we'll see how i manage that.
tv is big here. but hilariously dubbed and containing mostly bad shows. my family gets about 13 channels, almost all in french. some usual programs we watch are dubbed soap operas mainly from the US or mexico or brazil, but also including one cameroonian one which is severely lacking in production quality; i saw that they carry 24, season 4 on some channel, dubbed of course; i heard oprah is on here; then there are bad or old, often dubbed, movies and of course the news. the TV is on thoughout the entire day, and the one in my house is placed quite central to everything.
i did laundry by hand for the first time last sunday. it was tough and i had a lot. unfortunately, you have to leave clothes be for three days after they dry or iron the, or else you might well get worms under your skin. awesome, right? turns out quick dry was not the way to go, since those clothes tend to be unironable. however, they dont retain smell too much, which lets me wear them more often.
sunday was also the fete de la jeunesse, a huge holiday celebrating young people over here. huge parade went on for ever, including chilluns and university students. streets became crowded and as is more noral here, police had to beat back children onto the side of the road to let the parade pass. got to watch it all from our perch on the 3rd level at the SIT office.
also visited a village waterfall thing on sat, which was cool.
for now, must leave for more learning.

some snipets of life remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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dust and family

2007-02-08T15:40:02Z

life goes well in dschang. the dust here is really getting to me though, and should continue until the rainy season begins in march. i felt sick when i woke up this morning and can't get it out of my lungs. walking everywhere right next to the road isnt much help either.
yesterday was eventful... presented homestay gifts to my family - maryland calendar, multi-purpose tool, chocolate, lip glosses, the source feb issue, american flag bandanna, sudoku book, and coloring book + crayons for darlene. all were accepted well. the hershey kisses went fast (especially into mamans belly), and i spent the night teaching xaverie sudoku, which i think she enjoys. papa was really impressed with the tool thing. i am about out of girly gits though. hopefully i will have more males in my other homestays so i can give out most of the remainder of my gifts (the good ones imho).
i've been setting and clearing the table of late, trying to be a real family member. darlene is crazy about me (maybe just crazy), which results in hours of strange interplay. i served myself the fish head last night, but didn't know how to suck the brains out properly, much to their amusement, so i gave it up.
before going home i stopped by the tailors yesterday and ordered a whole outfit. i'm supremely excited to get it on saturday. i also desperately need to do some laundry this weekend, but i should probably beat the dust out of my pants before even starting.
i'm going to come with a detailed typical day entry soon enough. till then i need a respirator and new legs.

dust and family remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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homestay life

2007-02-06T16:15:07Z

Life is a bit slower now. I moved in with my homestay family this past saturday night. Papa is a professor at the U of Dschang, Maman stays home and does some sewing on the side. I have all sisters at home, ironically enough, considering the makeup of the program. Oldest daughter at home is Xaverie, age 27 and the equivelant of a graduate student at the U. Second is Hueguette, 23 and also grad student. Ingrid is 19, in the last year of "college"/high school (except you earn your bachelors). And Darlene is six, the daughter of Xaverie. The family is quite well off compared to other host families. We live in a house in the neighborhood called Foto, which is about a 30 minute walk for me every morning. We have electricity (except for the occasional blackout due to infrastructure issues - but its the fault of an american company) and running water, theoretically, because its been out since i've been there. Life without running water really is not hard though. Just dump water to manually flush the toilet and use collected water to wash yourself. I feel accepted in the family, but as a boy, dont do muc work (yet, perhaps).
School is not too difficult so far, except we have class 6 days a week, usually from 8 to 3:30+. Intensive French, Culture and Development Seminar, and The Field Study Seminar rotate to fill the schedule.
Social life is very different, since your not allowed out at night because of crime and lack of lighting. Bedtime is understandably earlier. All these girls aren't getting to me too badly, but we'll see how i continue to adjust. It will be weird (but welcome) reentering a world of men back home.
Food is definitely different over here. I haven't eaten anything too delicious at home so far, and there aren't many choices for lunch out on the town. Hopefully, I'll figure out some alternatives and learn to cook african style at some point (although men generally don't cook). I really have no clue about what goes on behind the scenes at home, so I think I better look into that and start being a real family member.
So all is well. All is so cheap. And things will continue to pick up. I definitely miss my comfort zone at home, but need to try to find new ways to relax, since snood and comedy central are no longer options. anyone not near the equator can be quite jealous of the weather here at least.
take care yallz.

homestay life remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Settling into Dschang

2007-02-03T15:05:02Z

Alriiigghhhht. We just got into Dschang, our program's main location with the longest homestay. It's been quite the past week. For anyone whose never been to Africa (maybe developing nations in general), it's truly a new experience. Everything around you is different - people all around walking long the roads, constant attention since you are the only white people around, and dust everywhere. What is luxury here is nothing like luxury at home.
We've spent the last few days in Banjoun at the compound of a wealthy woman, getting to know eachother, learning the country's basics and eating very well. I happen to be the only male on the program, which might be trying, but I expect I can handle it (I do get special attention, considered kind of a chief). All the girls are so interesting, everyone with their own amazing experiences all leading up to this. Christianne is the program director, a cameroonian native who is so helpful and smart. She speaks 7 languages!
We've spent a fair amount of time traveling so far. Roads are all paved so far, but many in poor condition. In general, driving here is hectic and dangerous.
Computers are interesting, and we're about to have a power outage...
P.S.!! my cell number here is 2375644643 (237 is the country code) we're six hours ahead. till next time...

Settling into Dschang remains copyright of the author strandcam, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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